Monday, September 26, 2011

WALL CLIMBING IN KUALA LUMPUR

Malaysia has it all: an array of limestone outcrops on Peninsular Malaysia, granite boulders and monoliths at the east coast, limestone crags and sandstone mountains in Sarawak and alpine granite and big walls in Sabah. However, this vast potential is still awaiting exploration and development by a small, but growing community. The hub of Malaysian climbing is still KL with the two main regions Batu Caves and Bukit Takun.

All the crags listed in the KL region are located at Batu Caves, the last limestone outcrop on Peninsular Malaysia. Further south there is nothing but granite, most of it hidden by dense jungle. The huge potential lies north of KL, in the states Perak (around Ipoh), Perlis, Kelantan and Pahang where hundreds of limestone crags wait for being explored.

The big unknown is East Malaysia that can offer another enormous untapped potential of climbing crags. Most of the routes in Malaysia are bolted sportclimbs on limestone crags, with some trad exceptions on granite walls.

Malaysia is using the French grading system. The weather in Malaysia is tropical, meaning same temeperature all year long. Rain season should kick in during april and may, followed by a little bit dryer time from june till august. The rain strikes again in september and october, while november till february is considered dry season. However, being in the inner tropics the rain and dry seasons are less dramatic compared to Thailand or Bangladesh. Usually rain sets in around 3.00 pm, independent on the actual season.

Climbing is possible throughout the year: the rock, especially limestone dries quickly even after tormental storms. Watch out for the exceptional heat and humidity, especially when you are used to climbing at moderate temperatures. Standard equipment for a Malaysian crag is sun cream, mosquito repellent and plenty of water.

Kuala Lumpur

  1. Camp 5
    EZ501, 5th Floor, 1
    Utama Shopping Centre, Bandar Utama
    47800, Petaling Jaya. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
    603 784 555 61
    http://camp5.com
    > 2500m2 Indoor climbing wall, top rope walls from 8 to 13m height, 8m trad rock-like wall,lead walls from 16 to 20m. Massive comp wall. 400 m2 of bouldering, with a 5m top out and 2 caves

  2. First World Hotel / Theme Park
    69000 Genting Highlands,
    Pahang, Malaysia
    > Indoor climbing wall

  3. MadMonkeyz Climbing Gym
    19-1, Jalan Metro Wangsa, Wangsa Maju
    Section 2, Wangsa Maju
    Kuala Lumpur, Setapak, Malaysia 53300
    +603 4142 0698
    http://www.madmonkeyz.my/
    > MadMonkeyz Climbing in Malaysia is dedicated to bouldering and movement training for climbing. Located at Wangsa Maju, Madmonkeyz is accessible by public transportation and is open 7 days a week offering great routes and a comfortable atmosphere to train in.

Putrajaya

  1. PutraClimb
    Challenge Park 2, Jalan P5 Precint 20
    Putrajaya, Malaysia
    http://www.putraclimb.com
    >Massive overhangs, up to 25 meters. 50 Lead anchors.Lead walls range from moderate to very difficult. French 6A to 7C or more. Bouldering wall for beginner and advanced.

Shah Alam

  1. Shah Alam Exteme Park
    Behind KFC, Seksyen 13
    Shah Alam, 40000 Malaysia
    http://www.mbsa.gov.my
    > 3 bouldering rocks which are part of the park.

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